Okay, I know that not many of you have Galant VR-4s on this list, but for those that do, here are some directions for replacing the fuel pump. Keep in mind that this is how I did it, and some of my methods might not jive with what you think. Here goes. Keep in mind that these are for the pump that DSS sells. Other maybe be slightly different; I don't know.
First, here is a list of the tools I used:
Here is a list of the stuff you should get BEFORE you start:
1. Open the trunk and remove the carpeting and cover for the spare, and put them somewhere else.
2. Take a Phillips head screwdriver and remove the two brass screws that secure the plate that covers the gas tank access hole, and remove the screws that hold down the wiring harness that runs toward the rear of the car. There will be three of them. Unplug the wiring harness. When removing the plate, push the wiring harness through the hole in the plate so you can work with it without having that black plate in your way.
3. Try to start the car, and if it starts at all, let it idle until it dies do to lack of fuel. Remember to open the fuel filler cap to help release in-tank pressure.
4a. Using the 14 mm and 19 mm flare end wrenches, loosen the fuel line that comes from the front of the car. This connection is going to be tough to get loose. It helps to have doused this with penetrating oil a few days beforehand. I got it loose by putting the flare wrenches on, then putting the large crescent wrenches on the ends of the boxed end wrenches, and using them like cheater bars. This is the only way I was able to get this connection loose on our 92. On the 91, it popped right off. Go figure.
4b. If you can't get that line loose, do this: Block the front wheels, jack up the driver's side rear of the car, and remove the driver's side rear wheel. Then crawl under the car and you'll see the same fuel line you were trying to loosen, where it connects to the solid fuel line that runs under the car. This connection is much easier to get the wrenches on, and is not torqued as tightly as the other one. Put the wrenches (flare) on and then do the same thing I told you to do with the crescent wrenches, put them on the ends of the flare wrenches to use them to get more torque. Loosen this line. If this one breaks loose, take it off, have towels ready to soak up whatever gas drips out, and disconnect this line completely. It will drip, and sometimes squirt gas out of either end when you loosen it. I haven't found a way to avoid this yet. :(
5. Remove the six small nuts that hold the fuel pump assembly to the top of the tank. They should come off fairly easily.
6. Get ready to have gas on your hands. GENTLY pull up on the fuel pump assembly, keeping in mind the it is NOT going to come straight up and out. Pull up and be twisting the thing counterclockwise, while angling the thing forward. I know this is hard to understand without seeing it, but you'll know what I mean when you're doing it. Be careful not to damage the fuel level indicator, which is why this part is a pain in the butt. Before taking the thing completely out of the car, try to angle it different ways to get more of the gas to drip out into the tank, and not in your trunk. :)
7. By this point you should have the pump assembly out of the tank and in your hands. After getting as much gas to drip out as you can, take it somewhere, preferably clean, where you can work on it. Remove the screw holding the metal bracket that is holding the bottom of the actual pump in the fuel pump assembly. Remove the black rubber bushing that is cushioning the bottom of the pump. Unplug the wiring harness from the top of the fuel pump.
8. Pull the pump away from the metal tube that is pressure fitted to the top of the pump. This is kind of a pain, but be patient and it will come. The O-ring I mentioned is what is giving you all this trouble, so be careful, and if you're lucky you can reuse it. The crappy thing is, you won't know if it's bad until you have the whole thing back together. <groan>
9. Once the pump is away from the rest of the assembly, pull that o-ring off of the pump, if it came off with the pump. It might stay in the fuel pump assembly. This next part is tricky: Take a small screwdriver or pocket knife, and gently pry the retention washer upward. TAKE YOUR TIME. Work one side, then the other, until it comes off. Then re-bend the flaps of the washer so they're flat again. (I used a very small socket pressing down on it.) You can now reuse this part, but this part only costs like $1.80 anyway, so you might as well replace it. Now remove the fuel filter sock.
10. Grab the upgraded pump. Look at it next to the stock pump. See how it's slightly taller? This is going to be a pain to remedy, just so you know. First, move away from the gas tank. Do NOT skip this step. Take a Dremel tool and cut at least half of the half-moon flange off, the flange that's on the bottom of the pump. Anyway, install the fuel filter and retention washer on the upgraded pump. They will not fit exactly the same way they did on the old pump. They will fit facing the side, which is no big deal. Install the retention washer, and make sure it's on there tight. Put the O-ring on the upgraded pump. Using a little petroleum jelly makes it go on easier, but don't use too much.
11. Grab the Dremel again. Put on the small de-burring bit, and grind out the black bushing's underside until it fits the bottom of the upgraded pump. This part is by FAR the biggest pain about this job. This will take a WHILE to do. Do it in small parts so you don't take too much material from the bushing. The reason you need to take a lot of material from this bushing is to make it fit in the pump assembly. Just take enough that you can put the bushing on the bottom of the pump, put the metal bracket on it, and get the screw threaded in. BEFORE you do this, put the pump back into the pump assembly, using a little more petroleum jelly to make it easier.
12. Once you get the screw tightened, the tough part is over. Now you need to make wires to connect the positive and ground poles of the pump to the wiring harness from the old pump. Get about six inches of good wire, preferably stuff that the insulation is gas resistant, and trim the ends so you can crimp the wiring connectors on nice and tight. I personally used 12 gauge stereo power wire, but I haven't taken the assembly apart yet to see how it's holding up. I will shortly when the car comes home again. The 12 gauge wire is a bit much, by the way.
13. Make sure that you make the wires long enough to connect solidly, but not long enough that they're going to bind and cause a problem when you put them in. This is the problem I had; it took my three tries to get them in while they were still connected well, but in my opinion, it was worth it. :)
14. Check all the connections and make sure you tighten the nuts on the positive and negative poles of the pump. A little time taken now will prevent pains later. Be patient. Also make sure you check the screw on the bottom of the pump assembly holding the pump on for tightness; this is essential.
15. Start putting the pump back into the tank, making sure that you don't damage any part of the fuel level sensor arm. Take your time. Once it's back in the tank, fit the assembly back over the six little bolts that hold it to the tank. (You'll know what I'm talking about by this point.) Tighten the bolts, but not too tight. You DO NOT want to strip these.
16a. If you got the fuel line disconnected at the rear, right where it connects to the pump assembly, take the time to tighten this line now. You don't need to go crazy, but then again, you don't want it to come loose, either. The factory torque spec on this is between 25 and 28 ft-lbs of torque. I don't think there's ANY way you could get a torque wrench in there to check, so just get it tight. Once again, make sure you don't strip anything.
16b. If you disconnected the line at the front connection point, then get under the car and connect it and make it tight again. This one is supposed to be torqued to about 20 ft-lbs, but again, I don't know how you'll get a torque wrench for this. Double check all connections as far as fuel lines go.
17. Once you have all the fuel line connections together, plug in the wiring harness for the car. Do not put all the plates back together yet; you want to see if the thing works before doing the rest. Trust me on this one.
18. The moment of truth. Close the gas cap, and try to start the car. It should start at this point. It might take a little while for pressure to build in the system and purge whatever air has gotten in, so keep trying. If it hasn't started in 3 tries, something's wrong.
19. First thing to check if it doesn't start: undo the fuel line, which should be much easier to do this time, then remove the six nuts holding the pump assembly in the tank. Pull the assembly out and check the wires going to the pump. If it doesn't start, this is the likely culprit: the wires came out of the harness. Make sure they're in there, and also make sure that they get into the tank without getting snagged on anything that could pull them out. This was the problem I had with mine.
20. Once you get it running, shut it off and reinstall the black plate and brass cover for the wiring harness and tighten all the screws. Put your carpeting and spare tire cover back in.
21. Drive it around for a day or two, then take off the black plate again and check all the fuel line connections and make sure that they are tight; you definitely don't want GAS leaking out.
22. Enjoy being able to crank your boost beyond 15 psi. If you haven't done it already; prepare to need a new clutch. :)
23. I don't think I left anything out, but if any of you are planning on installing a pump and have more questions, feel free to e-mail me with any questions at all, especially ones about making these instructions clearer. Take it easy.
#1047/2000 #282/1000
Last update March 26th, 1996.