Date: Mon, 5 Nov 90 09:47:30 EST From: newton.mitre.org!m21373 (Roberto Landrau RLL@MBUNIX.MITRE.ORG -- (617) 271-2302)
Have you ever complained about the performance of the headlamps on the Eclipse/Laser/Talon?
There is a fix. In fact, when "a certain Eclipse that I know" flashes its lights at night, Audis and Hondas, quickly move out of theway. Even huge pickup trucks find them annoying on the HIGH setting.
The low beams are far superior to the standard ones and provide less glare to incoming traffic (sounds like a contradiction, but you really have to see it to believe it!)
Once again... I encourage you to use careful engineering knowledge (and common sense) as you attempt this modification. Try your voltages with a voltmeter, if you can. This application is pretty safe, since everything is fused. If you wire things wrong, you will probably get dim headlamps or incorrect high/low beam settings. Still, please use common sense and don't hesitate to send me a note if you see anything weird of if you don't understand something.
Tools needed: 8 mm wrench, Phillips screwdriver, posi-drive
screwdriver(a Phillips will do, if you are careful), a brain, common sense, and
at least one arm.
Optional: voltmeter or voltage tester
First of all, notice that these automobiles DO NOT use the standard headlamps (200 mm diag. measure, 60w high/35w low sealed beam) that you would find in most other applications that use one headlamp on each side.The headlamps are the new "mini" size. They measure 165 mm (diag) and use 65w/45w (hi/lo) beams.
I HAVE HEARD that people have converted Eclipses to use European headlamps (60w high/55w low or 100w high/55w low). DON'T LOOK AT ME!I WOULDN'T DO SOMETHING LIKE THAT. That's illegal! And I always drive 55... And if you believe that one ... you will probably believe that I am going to trade in my Eclipse GSX for a Yugo, and please look up the word gullible in the Webster's dictionary: it is misspelled!
The mod's described here will allow you to go back to the original system at any time without leaving any traces. (Good for warranty work).
Here is how it was done:
You need a kit from Hella to convert from Sealed beams to the H4 bulbs.The kit is $50.00/pair. Not bad considering that a sealed beam costs you $20.00 (each). Make sure you get the upgraded 100w/55w H4 bulbs!
The housing has mirrors on the upper, lower and rear surfaces inside. There is also an opaque shield in the center to avoid light from shining straight ahead. The low beam filament shines straight up inside the housing. The upper mirror reflects that light down. The net effect is a nice beam that covers EVERYTHING below a certain LINE. And I mean LINE. If you shine the low beams in front of a wall, you will see that above that LINE there is NO light. Below that line, EVERYTHING is illuminated. Incoming traffic does not get blinded by your bright headlamps, as a results. And you get to see the road very well. The high beam filament shines both up and down. Switch the high beams on and you won't even be able to tell where the center of the beam is! It's DAYLIGHT! The lens in front of the light housing also has an asymmetrical pattern. There is a translucent section on the right side to provide more light to the right than to the left. Actually, the line that I mentioned before takes a 30 deg bend upwards about 3' to the right of the center of the car. Again, you get to see the side of the road and the curb, without blinding the incoming traffic.
The low beams are so good that it is hard to tell whether or not your fog lamps are on or off!
The kits can be purchased from your favorite Hella dealer. I recommend New England Automotive. They were very friendly and exchanged the kits after I found out the standard (200 mm) ones wouldn't fit. Also,they are familiar with the Eclipse application, after we found out it is nonstandard.
This is what you need to purchase:
Explain to your dealer that you know what you are buying: 165 mm diag
measure, even though you only have one headlamp on each side.
The headlamp can be replaced easily, except that the plugs won't fit.You need to modify the harness that is supplied with the kits (easy fix).
If you are as paranoid as I am, remove the headlamp motor relay (passenger side of the engine compartment, by the shock tower, inside relay box).
You should have now an adapter similar to the original one, pin-by-pin compatible, but 24" long, instead of 4". Notice the pins on the H4's and on the adapter:
yellow (low)
|-------|
|-------|
_ _ Note: this is looking into the female socket
| |w | |
| |h | |brown
| |i | |(common)
| |t | |
- e -
(high)
Notice the arrangement of the socket on your wiring harness:
(1) (high)
|--------|
|--------|
_ __
| | / /
| |(2) / /(3) (common)
| | / /
| | / /
- -
(high)
Oh Oh!! Don't fit! No problem!
When you turn the headlamps on (low beams) you should see the filament with the metal shield around it glowing. When you turn the high beams on, you should see the unexposed filament on. Do this test with the bulb outside the housing so that you can tell which filament is on. Do this quickly. Don't leave the bulbs on for more than 15 seconds or so at a time, since the bulbs will have no heat sinking outside the housing.
The air cleaner gets in the way. You can remove the screen and route the wires through it, or you can just find another location for the plugs. BEFORE you activate the headlamp motors, move them manually (use the little crank provided.) Turn in the direction of the arrow and make sure that the headlamp won't crush the plugs when it closes. Keep turning in the direction of the arrow after the headlamp is closed to get it open again.
Another "enhancement" brought to you by...
Roberto L. Landrau The MITRE Co. rll@mbunix.mitre.org (617) 271-2302
Date: Thu, 28 Mar 91 19:54:49 PST From: Talon Mgr
I recently modified my headlights using the Hella kit as specified ina previous list note from Roberto Landrau.
I absolutely love it! I can actually see the road now. I've driven past tons of cops and CHP with no problems. I think these should become the DOT standard. Sometimes with the other lights, people would flash me, but not with these (in spite of the fact that they are BRIGHTER).
Best $100 I ever spent. I've got a rally coming up at the beginning of April. Can't wait to try them under rally conditions.
My next mod will involve making it so the fogs don't turn off with thebrights. This means pulling out wire 1 from the C-07 connector and either directly grounding it or connecting it to wire 2. I'm also going to make it so the fog light on/off status will be indicated by the light in the switch. All this involves is pulling the wire out of 5 on the fog light switch, moving it to 3, and then wiring 1 to 5.
-todd- [your talon mgr]
Date: Fri, 29 Mar 91 08:26:35 EST From: ohm.mitre.org!m21373
(RobertoLandrau -- RLL@MBUNIX.MITRE.ORG -- (617) 271-2302)
I am glad to hear someone else tried it. Make sure you use tons of silicone sealant to waterproof the connectors.
There is one mod that I HAVE to do, but I am waiting for the weather to get warmer. Notice that the design of the headlamp system makes no sense. They have a relay at the positive side of the headlamps. But then they route the return all the way back to the dashboard and to the headlamp switch.
What I intend to do is take the wire that goes to the switch and use that to trigger relays (mounted near the headlamps), one for highbeams and one for low beams. The other side of the relay coil would go to the positive side of the headlamps. That way whenever the headlamps are asked to turn on by the main headlamp relay, the other two that I have added will also have 12v at one side of the coil. When the headlamp switch is on, the circuit will be complete. The switch side of the relay would, of course, be connected between one pair of filaments (eitherhigh or low, both sides) and ground. Now you will have < 1A flowing through your headlamp switch, instead of 10A, like in the original design.
[I agree with your idea, especially in light of the fact that these Hellas really suck the current. However, why not mount the relays inside? You could do your mod right underneath the steering column. -- talon mgr]
I have been using the Hellas for 6 months. No problems yet. Looking at my car besides another Talon at night I could tell the difference between the two headlamps right away. The ones in my car don't look as bright at all when you are facing the car. However, the area in front of the car is illuminated a lot better with my headlamps.
High beams are GREAT. I bought the 55w low 100W high bulbs. Standard ones in the Eclipse are 45w/65w. Standard H4's are 55w/60w, but you can get the 55w/100w or even 90w/100w. I figured the 90w/100w will probably be asking for trouble. Imagine what will happen in a traffic jam, at night when your engine is idling and you have the blower fan, two 90w headlamps and (possibly) the rear window defogger. That makes me nervous, especially since I have no voltmeter in the car.
[Check the rating on your alternator. See if you got a 75A one by mistake. If you want to, you could always replace your alternator with the 90A Canadian version. I'm planning on doing that if my alternator ever goes. -- talon mgr]
Back to high beams... two days ago someone cut me off (I had to go in the breakdown lane to avoid a collision because breaking was not enough). She was going from lane to lane squeezing in between traffic. Needlessto say, I followed her for about 2 miles with my 100w's on. The cabin of her car was very well illuminated. She eventually got the message and calmed down.
Roberto L. Landrau rll@mbunix.mitre.org