Date: Sat, 27 Oct 90 11:01:59 EDT
From: ohm.mitre.org!m21373 (Roberto Landrau -- RLL@MBUNIX.MITRE.ORG--
(617) 271-2302)
Dear Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon and Plymouth Laser owners:
As I mentioned before, I have a list of the connection points for those
who are interested in adding an alarm system to their cars.
First of all, I would like to congratulate each and every one of you on your wise decision and your choice of car. If you don't own one yet, congratulations on your taste.
I have installed an alarm system in my '90 Eclipse GSX. I would like to share the wiring with everyone else in the mailing list, as I promised.
Note: Please make a sketch and a list before you start. Also, get a voltmeter and an ohmmeter to measure voltage and resistance at the points before you make a connection. If you find the smallest discrepancy between what you see and what I claim you should see, please don't hesitate to send me (or the mailing list) a note. It is entirely possible that I could have made a mistake (I have made mistakes in life before, I think...)
... of course, we will call it a TYPING ERROR.
The biggest problem that I found was going from the engine compartment to the passenger compartment. I poked a hole through the rubber boot that surrounds the steering column. The rubber is very soft, so you may have to poke a hole with an Exacto knife first and then use a sharp object to get the wire through. I used a pen with a 20 ga. wire taped to it. Then I used that 20 ga wire to get the power wire (16 ga THNNoil-proof, 650v-proof, high temperature resistant wire) and the alarm wire(THNN also) through the rubber boot.
Warning: There is a metal edge around the rubber boot in the passenger compartment. Use plastic conduit to prevent the metal from scratching the insulation off the wires and shorting them to ground. Again, Radio Shaft has the plastic conduit. Another advantage is that it will not be obvious to the thieves (and to my dealer) that those are alarm wires (my dealer told me that if I installed a non-Mitsubishi alarm my warranty would be void).
THIS IS A FRONT VIEW OF THE JUNCTION BOX |-----------------------| |C-39 .C - 4 0 .| | ............| | | | C38 | | ............... | | .C - 3 7. | | ............... | ..... ..... | | . . . . | | . C . . C . | C-36 C 35 | . 6 . . 6 . |XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| . 1 . . 0 . |X X| . . . . |X X| ..... ..... |X F U S E B O X X| |X X| ..... |X X| . . |X X| . . |X X| . . |XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX| . . |-----------------------| ..... THIS IS A REAR VIEW OF THE JUNCTION BOX |-----------------------| | ..... ... ..... | | . . .C. . . | | . C . .4. . C . | | . 4 . .1. . 4 . | | . 7 . ... . 2 . | | . . . . | | ..... ..... | | | | ..... ..... | | . . . . | | . C . . C . | | . 4 . . 4 . | | . 6 . . 3 . | | . . . . | | ..... ..... | ---> DRIVER SIDE DOOR | | | ..... ..... | | . . . . | | . C . . C . | | . 4 . . 4 . | | . 5 . . 4 . | | . . . . | | ..... ..... | | | | R E A R V I E W | |-----------------------|
The best place to get power is at pin 6 of C-37. This is a black wire with a white stripe. Good luck (I couldn't get to it). This point is preferred because it de-activates the alarm when the key is in the ON or when the key is in the ACC position.
The second best place is C-45, pin 1. The wire is blue with a white stripe. An alternative is pin 4 of C46, with a blue wire coming out of it.
You can get access to this node at the junction block. Find C61 and connect to the Green wire with a red stripe. Before you connect, unplug C61 and measure 0V to ground with the door open and 12V with the door closed. Notice that this is NOT the connection used to turn the interior lights on. The switch is located inside the door latch on the driver's door.
You can connect to the parking lights to C45. Find the green wire with a white stripe on it. This will activate the front clearance lights, the side markers (all four), the taillights, and the license plate lights (quite a show at night). I would strongly advice everyone NOT to connect a new alarm to the headlamps. The high side of the headlamps in the Eclipse/Talon/Laser is connected to the headlamp relay. The low side is connected to the dimmer switch and to the factory alarm,if you have one. Don't come anywhere near, unless you really know what you are doing. Use the parking lights: they work fine.
The clutch interlock switch is a normally closed switch. When the clutch is NOT depressed all the way down, the switch grounds the input node. If that node is grounded, the inhibitor relay is activated. This relay cuts the power to the starter. The easiest way that I found to disable the starter was to connect a relay that would ground the input wire to the clutch switch. This wire is GREEN with a blue stripe.
Warning: If you have cruise control, you will find TWO switches at the clutch. One gets activated as soon as the clutch starts to move. This is the cruise control switch. It is located closer to the driver. The switch that you want is the one all the way down. To confirm you are dealing with the right switch, disconnect the switch. If you can start the car WITHOUT pushing the clutch, you have the right one.
If you still want hood protection, install a pin switch and run a wire through the firewall.
As far as the main control box for the alarm, you are going to have to be creative. There isn't a lot of spare room inside the passenger compartment, so it is all a matter of weighing how much you want to take apart vs. how accessible and visible you want your control to be. I didn't care much about visibility because I figured once they are inside the car, I have lost. What they will probably do is open the hood and cut the siren wires anyway. My main interest was the glass tampering sensor that goes off when you try to get a slim-Jim to open the door, or when something strikes the glass.
Thanks and GOOD LUCK!